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Keflavic, Iceland 10/13/04 09:00 Well I finally received my shipment of house hold goods this week which included all but Uncle Joe, the 10'6" G&S that marked the end of an era, I painfully left behind in government storage in storm ravaged Palm Bay. A lttle info for those of you who have never been in the service, when you work for the MAN overseas your belongings get divided in three: 1. What you can carry with you on a plane(140lbs. per person) 2. What fits in a 4x4x4 box(which you recieve 3 weeks later called "express") 3. All you couldn't take in 1&2(60 days later, called household goods). Of all that came on #3, all I cared about was my 6'10 rainbow, 7'0" Dick Brewer, 7'6" Local Motion, and my 9'0" Action. They all made it with out a scratch. A miracle considering all that they went through, Charlie, Frances, and their twisted siblings across the Atlantic. Sanvik, Iceland 10/14/04 15:00 air 45 water 40 I get a call from a Navy Air traffic Controller. Surf's up was all I got on my answering machine. I look out my living room's picture window to confirm that there are waves. I don my 6/5/4 with booties, strap my 6'10" to my trusty little Land Cruiser and point my car towards Hafnir Bay. I see that the winds are a bit side shore at the "reefs",(I use the word reefs because I don't know what you call these basalt rock formation that forms the waves here), so I head to the beach break"Sanvik". I arrive to find both the traffic controller and the airplane mechanic on the beach, surfed out and looking chilled. Waves are looking 4-6 with the occasional 8 with a nice offshore breeze. I grab my board and mittens and head out. My first session in the near artic. I see a large f'n' seal nearby. I know Great Whites don't come this far north, but Ive heard of the Greenland sharks........ I paddle out and feel surprisingly warm. The water can't touch me. I cant say enough how warm I feel(thank you Chuck from Spectrum and the folks from XCEL!!!!!!). waves are pounding me though and am not used to this added weight. I cant get the lineup right. Im a bit off of the outside, keep getting caught by the outside waves, keep missing the peak. Paddle, paddle, I keep saying this won't beat me, the waves look grewat I just am not used to all this gear. Light is starting to wane, Ive got to get one at least I say to myself. Finally this right Ive been positioning myself to get appears. Im in position I stroke, Im on, but wait, I can't drag my feet under me.. Im not going to kook out I think so I get to my knees first, then I try to stamd and ........................ The walk of shame back to the boys. At least they empathized, we all went through the same shit, they said.. Sanvik, Iceland 10/15/04 15:10 Im sitting in my boss' secretaries office discussiong some money matters as I peer out the window and see a Jeep Liberty with a longboard strapped on heading forthe main gate. My money matters seem unimportant all of a sudden. I haul ass home, gather up the goods, but this time I said, I will use the 9'0". I do the drive and see that the swell has dropped considerably. But wait, there's the Jeep Liberty on the beach and a guy on a nice waist high peeler. I pull up, unrack, get the gloves on and slip in. Ten strokes later I turn around an slip into a nice right, only to trip on my bootie that folded under my fat toe. All right, Im determined. Another ten strokes and I get into and this one I stand , trim, cut back and feel inspired enough to tell you . Five waves later I feel much better.......Day 2 |
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